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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm currently looking to trade in my 2021 Civic Hatchback Sport 1.5t for something with a bit more power. It's stock with just a basic tune that's estimated at around 240hp 250 torque.

Fell in love with the Stelvio and the numbers looked right for a decent upgrade in performance too.

I found a 2019 TI Sport Stelvio with 28k miles for a great deal that I just test drove yesterday, and was shocked at how much slower it felt than my Civic, and I test drove it in D mode. I already knew there was pedal/turbo lag with these so I went in with that expectation, but even flooring the pedal and THEN counting there's no way the 5.4sec 0-60 times I've seen could be right....my Civic is low 6s and definitely felt much quicker (both from a standstill, or from like a 30 to 60 pull). It had Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires on it and the tread looked good still so I'm ruling out the tires being the issue on the Stelvio.

I would plan on getting a tune for it, but even stock I was expecting it to perform at least equal to or better than my Civic. I'm wondering if maybe the car has any mechanical issues that could be slowing it down, or if it just needs maintenance etc. which brings me to my 2nd point of if I'm buying a used Alfa Romeo here in Las Vegas is there anywhere I can get a good personal inspection done before my 3 day return policy would be up? Should I just have it brought to an Alfa Romeo dealership and have them do it?
 

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Fastest launch will be brake torquing or manipulating the pedal like you drive a manual, modulating it quickly to get the wheels rolling before full power. Just slamming the pedal triggers too many electronic nannies and slows down eveything.

There are pedal modifiers that help.

Yes, the tranny can handle the brake torque launch, that is this car's version of launch control.

That said... The strength of the car is the chassis, the 4 cyl is there to back up the chassis. The fun is in cornering, not accelerating IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Fastest launch will be brake torquing or manipulating the pedal like you drive a manual, modulating it quickly to get the wheels rolling before full power. Just slamming the pedal triggers too many electronic nannies and slows down eveything.

There are pedal modifiers that help.

Yes, the tranny can handle the brake torque launch, that is this car's version of launch control.

That said... The strength of the car is the chassis, the 4 cyl is there to back up the chassis. The fun is in cornering, not accelerating IMO.
Ahh I didn't realize the numbers I've seen posted around were with brake torque launching. Makes sense!! And yeah the handling was incredible, corners felt great. I just usually like to have fun out of a red light too so I was curious about the acceleration stats I had seen vs what I experience in the test drive. I'm sure the one I tested probably could hit those numbers with the brake torque launch though. It just made me worried that maybe something was mechanically wrong with the car and was making me hold off from making the deal. It does still have 11 months (or 20k miles) of the original warranty left so I guess I don't have to be TOO worried yet.
 

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It takes time but if you learn to manipulate the pedal right, brake torquing is unnessesary.

Nobody beats me from a light unless their car is legitimately faster, however .... More then a few people here think I'm insane and can't get good stop light acceleration without a pedal mod or brake torquing.

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. If that doesn't make sense just get a mod or brake torque.
 

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The pedal boosters help a lot. I know some say they are just smoke and mirros but i found it really helped with turbo lag and the personality of the car. FYI if your car is still under warranty even the humble pedal booster will throw a red flag at a dealer as a "modification"
 

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The pedal boosters help a lot. I know some say they are just smoke and mirros but i found it really helped with turbo lag and the personality of the car. FYI if your car is still under warranty even the humble pedal booster will throw a red flag at a dealer as a "modification"
where are you getting the claim that a pedal booster raises a flag? As I understand it, it only alters the signal to the ECU, it doesn't actually reprogram the ECU. So it would be undetectable by it. (?)
 

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where are you getting the claim that a pedal booster raises a flag? As I understand it, it only alters the signal to the ECU, it doesn't actually reprogram the ECU. So it would be undetectable by it. (?)
Dealers have clamped down, any wiring or component that's not factory can affect warranty, even Auto S/S bypass cables, thus the warning that modifications while under warranty are at your own risk.
 

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Have you timed both cars 30-70? I ask because my wife's car is a 2019 Subaru Legacy 3.6R. Her car jumps off the line when you touch the gas pedal, much quicker than my Stelvio. Most of our driving is urban, so her car's advantage 0-30 is more obvious. However, driving to see friends in NJ about 50 miles away using the Garden State Parkway, we usually alternate cars. I noticed that when passing other cars, going from 65-80 say, my Stelvio seems to have a much greater reserve of power and passes with ease. The Subaru has power but doesn't seem as lively at the high end revs. Just an observation that may help you decide..
 

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I'm currently looking to trade in my 2021 Civic Hatchback Sport 1.5t for something with a bit more power. It's stock with just a basic tune that's estimated at around 240hp 250 torque.

Fell in love with the Stelvio and the numbers looked right for a decent upgrade in performance too.

I found a 2019 TI Sport Stelvio with 28k miles for a great deal that I just test drove yesterday, and was shocked at how much slower it felt than my Civic, and I test drove it in D mode. I already knew there was pedal/turbo lag with these so I went in with that expectation, but even flooring the pedal and THEN counting there's no way the 5.4sec 0-60 times I've seen could be right....my Civic is low 6s and definitely felt much quicker (both from a standstill, or from like a 30 to 60 pull). It had Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires on it and the tread looked good still so I'm ruling out the tires being the issue on the Stelvio.

I would plan on getting a tune for it, but even stock I was expecting it to perform at least equal to or better than my Civic. I'm wondering if maybe the car has any mechanical issues that could be slowing it down, or if it just needs maintenance etc. which brings me to my 2nd point of if I'm buying a used Alfa Romeo here in Las Vegas is there anywhere I can get a good personal inspection done before my 3 day return policy would be up? Should I just have it brought to an Alfa Romeo dealership and have them do it?
You need to brake torque it. Just flooring it, you're looking at mid 6's. Similar for a 5mph or so start, mid 6s. I, too, felt the acceleration was very lacking when I test drove it, and ultimately opted to get an RDX instead.
 

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If your coming from a civic than why aren’t you test driving a giulia? It’s 500l lbs lighter than Stelvio and quicker off the line. it will be closer to what your looking for. I own both
 

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Dealers have clamped down, any wiring or component that's not factory can affect warranty, even Auto S/S bypass cables, thus the warning that modifications while under warranty are at your own risk.
That’s fair and prudent warning and I wouldn’t do mods either, my redline is drawn at swapout of the OEM floormats ..

But Some will accept a level of warrantability risk for a value-added mod if detection manageable and mod readily undoable/reversible.. for example I wouldn’t have dealer replace a cabin air filter w/o first disconnecting a pedal booster (if I had one) b/c it’s in his face when accessing the filter…I’ve. I idea if auto bypass is removable but for many folks, dealer visits may be infrequent enough that removal is manageable ? IDK

Which leaves the question of whether removable performance mods along the lines of what OP might consider leave any digital signature. I don’t trust manufacturer claims that they don’t but then I’ve not read in these forums that they do….
 

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Which leaves the question of whether removable performance mods along the lines of what OP might consider leave any digital signature. I don’t trust manufacturer claims that they don’t but then I’ve not read in these forums that they do….
FWIW I have a good dealer, and with a wink and a nod, they let me know that they also wanted the car to come in without the hardwired dashcam, 12v lighter socket would be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
If your coming from a civic than why aren’t you test driving a giulia? It’s 500l lbs lighter than Stelvio and quicker off the line. it will be closer to what your looking for. I own both
I would be fine with a Giulia actually but haven't seen a single one at a Honda dealership in months of searching I only see Stelvio's. (Have to trade in at a Honda dealership as it's leased through them and they don't allow it to be traded in anywhere else. Trying to take advantage of the $5kish that I have in equity at the moment, getting higher trade in value than what I paid new 2 years ago lol.) Also coming from the Civic Hatchback I actually prefer the hatchback rear look of the Stelvio as well.

Another thing is its possible the dealer just put regular fuel in it as opposed to to premium. Makes a huge difference.
I know my wife did it once it was very noticeable.
I had actually thought of that as well, I wouldn't be surprised if they did just throw in some 87, although I wouldn't have expected it to make that huge of a difference.
 

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One thing to think of and maybe you already realize this...or have considered it...

Alot of the "feeling" of acceleration has to do with how the weight shifts in a car when under power.


A Civic having a front heavy chassis vs the Stelvio being balanced front/rear... You get more weight transfer in the Civic which creates an initial feeling of acceleration which will "feel" stronger then the Stelvio simply due to how much the car changes attitude under acceleration.
.... Or it will for some people.

Not being judgmental.. had this Convo a million times with my Dad back when he swore our Audi A6 4.2 was slower then his tuned Miata.

... The Miata felt faster.... The Audi ate it as a light snack though.
 

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(Have to trade in at a Honda dealership as it's leased through them and they don't allow it to be traded in anywhere else. Trying to take advantage of the $5kish that I have in equity at the moment, getting higher trade in value than what I paid new 2 years ago lol.)
Buy out the car directly from Honda Financing, or whomever you have the lease through. Get loan financing if you have to.
Then you can trade the car in at whatever dealer you want, and your new temporary loan will get closed out.

Don't play the game of "You can only trade our leased car in at one of our brand's dealers" bs that you're currently engaged in.

And then you can go directly to an Alfa Dealer near you, and buy something new or preowned that will be under a better warranty than a used one with unknown history.
 
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