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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all…. Got my Stelvio TI back in late 2018 and it currently has 46k mikes and has been wonderful. Had an issue a few years back after a service that was likely related to the battery but it was gone a day later after a long drive.

so yesterday I drive to work and park. All good. I come out at the end of the work day and try to start it. The needles do their thing but no start. Car makes a clicking sound and begins to cycle through a warning of every system. Temperature reads -119 or so. Lights flashing, etc. At this point I try to shut it off but the start/stop button does nothing.

I pop the hood and hook up my trusty Matco jump box to it but when pressing the button, it doesn’t try to start. For the next 45 mins it just freaked out. The needles would go back and forth and stop after a bit. Then the outside mirror lights would flash like the alarm was going off but nothing else. Then the lights inside would turn on. Just wild.

after an hour it still wouldn’t try to start and none of the unlock, lock, key fob, power seats would work. At this point just the light in the cup holder was on, etc. I wanted to try a jump to the battery in back but the Lift gate was not going to open of course. I googled a ton and none of the manual ways seemed to be applicable to my car.

I am headed back now to trickle charge it a little and see if I can get the tailgate open to jump it directly from the battery…. Of course there is no longer a dealer in my city but there is one about 50 mins away.

don’t know if anyone has experienced a full on freak out like this but hoping I’ll get it started, get the battery charged back up, and get a proper battery. I think I am still running the stock one. Why I hadn’t gotten a proper battery by now after know long firsthand that it has issues…. My bad…

Sean
 

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I would guess that if the battery is defective, or really low, your jump box will not work.....
it would probably take some time to put some initial charge in the battery, especially if the ignition is (partially) on...
Using a charger to get some charge in the battery will probably help...
 

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Are you sure there isn't an alarm on the car?

Sometimes dealers will add one, then if you don't buy it tell you they removed it...when really they don't. They just deactivate it.

..then...later something happens and it starts working again except it thinks the car is being stolen so it works by killing your ignition.

If that is not the case what @jwq2 said is probably correct. Your jumper box isn't strong enough to jump the car. Hook the car up to a trickle charger and give it an hour. Then try to start it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks both of you! I am going to try to get a little charge in, even if it's enough to pop the tailgate and then jump the battery directly. I tried for 30 minutes to find the manual hatch release from inside the back of the car, but to no avail. So a little charging first.

I'm not thinking there was an alarm on the car other than what you get stock. I know it's gone off before without me accidentally hitting the panic button (which I've done) but nothing special... So not really sure there. It certainly seemed like it was a partially on ignition cause I couldn't try it again... But if it was some security thing, it would surprise me that I literally saw every single warning cycle on the display that the car has... Every system... It was just total bonkers. I've seen firsthand what a slight lack of charge will do to the system and am kicking myself for not getting away from the stock battery a few years ago when I had the one issue. Oh well. I'll report back in a while if I'm able to get the car moving...

Appreciate the replies.
Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well sweet Jeebus. I found the manual release to get the tailgate open from inside the car. So much bad info out there so I will be sure to follow up with pics and such. Was easy once I found it.
Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Back to the drawing board and will try to get a little trickle charge into it. Got it hooked up to the matco, got the green light that it was hooked up and ready to go, and just nothing when I pressed the start/stop button. Not a single thing. :(

Sean
 

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The car takes alot of juice to start and has relays that protect it from even trying if there isn't enough juice.

Trickle charge for a half hour minimum, an hour is better. Then try. Doing otherwise will either not work or possibly cause damage. (The only way it works to jump a car without charging anymore is with a very large jump box or a more powerful engine/battery that the car being jumped, jumping it. Even then, you should trickle charge for a while to avoid power surges that can damage components)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey all... So trickle charging it still didn't get it to the point where I could jump it. Had someone check the voltage, and the battery seems trashed. That's not to say there isn't a root cause that drained the battery, but it was the original Alfa Varta battery that I heard so much about.

Contacted a place by me that drives to where you're at (car was stuck in the work parking lot) with super reasonable prices, and they do battery replacements. They will even provide the battery for you and give you their price. I calculated it out, and I would have only saved $50 if I bought the battery nearby, and they showed up and installed it. So I paid the extra $50 and they got me a proper AGM battery, did the install, and it fires up like a charm.

I am going to have it looked at to see if anything else is up, but my previous battery was not taking enough of a charge anymore. Been meaning to replace the Varta for some time, but just kept kicking the can down the road so it's my own bad.

I'm in the process of clearing the list of warnings that happened now that I started it up with the new battery. It seemed as though that some just take time as I had it down to just the tire pressure monitoring system error, and the fact that my mirrors stayed in the folded up position when I started my car. Used the joystick to lower them, and now when I get out and lock they fold up, and when I start it they fold down and are working fine.

Everything I've read said you just drive, and the tire pressure monitors will calculate the tire pressure, save them, and that warning will clear.

Interested if anyone has any other advice for me at this point. As I said, I want to get it checked out to make sure there isn't a root cause issue that's causing the battery to go dead all of a sudden... But any other concerns for the battery swap? As I mentioned, there were a bunch of errors cycling on first start, but letting it run for a little, and then stopping and restarting it cleared most except for the tire pressure ones...

Thanks and sorry for the dump of words here. I'm now a master of unlocking/locking the front and rear doors with the manual key, and popping the tailgate with the little loop in the tailgate door from inside the back seat. :) Nothing I ever thought I'd be a master of before this debacle.

Sean
 

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Great that you are back on the road. You might hook up your trickle charger to ensure you’re new battery has a full charge.

I have a 2018 (an early 2017 build) on the original battery. Still doing fine. Stop start works regularly. Nevertheless I just asked my local shop to order a new Interstate AGM H8. It’s time.

FYI trickle charger often won’t have enough juice to get the charge going on a badly depleted battery. I have also found that a jump pack often won’t work on a bad battery. Perhaps you had a plate give up.
 

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Electronics make life better. Just repeat that to yourself....

Sounds pretty normal in terms of lights.

The battery being bad and not holding a charge is normal too. Even a brand new battery, if it gets drained all - or most - of the way down repeatedly will go bad pretty fast. After a certain number a of cycles the chemicals inside lose their ability to store energy. Sounds like your battery got drained and charged enough times to die. Still a good idea to get it checked out to be sure that is all it is, but you don't need to be worried while you wait for that to happen really.

(This is why EVs have really advanced battery charging software and suggest never going below a certain point of charge or above - Telsa say stay above 20% and charge to 80% for longest battery life I think.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks to both of you for your replies... I was a little worried about just swapping the battery and what was waiting for me, but all are cleared now except the tire pressure monitors. I'm taking it for a good drive now and all should be well. I'm interested in seeing if the new battery does a smoother start/stop. I always felt like the Varta was pretty harsh, so I got in the habit of shutting off the start/stop with the button with each start. Anxious to see how that goes now too.

Thanks again for all your support. I'll report back if there's a root cause found or a drain on the battery, but pretty excited to be back and operational again. Haven't had many issues at all with it (knock on wood) and look forward to being back to no worries. : )

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Took it for a good long drive. After about 20 mins the tire pressure failure went away and the car status screen began reporting pressures again. So all warnings cleared now.
Only 2 things I have noticed…

One button window roll down on the drivers window works but one button press to roll back up is not working.

I left the auto start/stop feature on, and after multiple stops, the car never shut off. The warning indicator is off for that system now. All are. I left it active cause I was curious if the start was smoother than with the Varta battery or not, but didn’t happen.

I am at least going to get my alternator tested tomorrow to be sure I’m not on a path to kill this new battery via something obvious.

Sean
 

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I am at least going to get my alternator tested tomorrow to be sure I’m not on a path to kill this new battery via something obvious.
That is a good idea.

You could also get a voltage monitor that plugs into a 12 volt outlet. That lets you see on a long term basis if the battery charge is OK. There are many that also have 2 USB charging connections.

Here is an example:
Material property Gadget Font Electronic device Technology
 

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Took it for a good long drive. After about 20 mins the tire pressure failure went away and the car status screen began reporting pressures again. So all warnings cleared now.
Only 2 things I have noticed…

One button window roll down on the drivers window works but one button press to roll back up is not working.

I left the auto start/stop feature on, and after multiple stops, the car never shut off. The warning indicator is off for that system now. All are. I left it active cause I was curious if the start was smoother than with the Varta battery or not, but didn’t happen.

I am at least going to get my alternator tested tomorrow to be sure I’m not on a path to kill this new battery via something obvious.

Sean
On the auto window up, you have to reset those after a dead/new battery. Glad you’re back up and running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks all for the replies. I have been monitoring everything after the new battery and nothing appears to be doing a slow drain on it. I did have an iPod plugged into the USB in the center console which I have not plugged back in since the new battery but that’s about it. So far, all is well and stable again. Good thing too cause I’m in Wisconsin and the temps are dropping. No fun getting stranded here.

I will search about the power windows and resetting them. That’s pretty much the last item to check off the list. Was definitely a learning experience. Learning how to pop the lift gate from the inside on a dead battery, learning how to lock all the doors on a dead battery, etc. Good times. I appreciate all the support.
Sean
 
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