Installed my Madness Sport Lowering Springs

Update 09/04/21 Supposedly you can replace the rear springs just by compressing them take them out, put the compressor on the new spring at the exact same spot compress install remove compressor. If you don't, then you need to replace different hardware. Here is the list and the torque specs I used on my 2020 Stelvio. I got this info using a 3 day pass for the service manual at the Mopar site. It has great pictures and parts lists. This information is for entertainment only, if you screw something up or hurt yourself, then maybe you should have paid someone to do this for you.
Front

Strut Assembly to lower control arm 60 NM + 135 degrees, 44ft/lbs + 135 degrees. Use bolt and nut from Alfissimo Kit
Upper control arm to knuckle 51Nm, 38ft/lbs use nut from Alfissimo Kit
Strut to Sway bar link 100 NM 74ftlbs Use nut from Alfissimo kit
The nut that holds the strut rod to the top cap that contains the spring 50Nm or 37 ft lbs

Rear
The 2 bolts that hold the brake lines to the lower control arm, no torque spec.
The bolt that holds the sway bar end link. Replace the nut. 100 Nm or 74 ft lbs. Nut part number 68356851AA

The bolt for the shock. The front bolt on the rear lower control arm You need a new nut with locking tab 60 Nm + 180 degrees or 40 ft lbs + 180 degrees Nut part number 68300652AA

The back bolt on the lower control arm. You need a new nut. 110 Nm +180 degrees or 81 ft lbs + 180 degrees Nut part number 68300146AA

Since my local mechanic wouldn't touch it, I installed my Madness Sport 1.2 inch drop springs in my back yard. I purchased a Rennstand jackstand from Safe Jack which I used with some Tesla jack pads and I made the wheel chocks from left over plywood and 2 X 4s. This kept it secure while you wrestle the stock springs out. Half way through I got a 12 inch alignment punch from home depot so I could get the holes close with the jack and then use the punch to get the fine alignment to push the bolt through. I got the one time use stretch bolts from Alfissimo and the torque specs from the service manual and a torque rotation gauge from harbor freight. Spring compressors from Amazon.. The back took longer than the front because it was first and my first time doing this. I marked the original springs with tape before removing the spring compressors in case I put them back in. It's tight and it's not obvious to me unless I see them installed.After I learned loosen the nuts with force on the bolts, then jack the wheel up or down to remove the bolts and naturally don't fully tighten them until all the bolts are in. arm. Wheel up alot to remove the sway arm bolt.. Wheel up a little to remove the lower control arm bolt, wheel lowest point with other bolts out to remove upper control arm bolt. Just follow the sequence on the their video. I also marked the top hat orientation on the strut before taking it apart. You want the 3 studs on the top to align with the holes under the hood when the bottom is lined up with the lower control arm holes. I used a square and some masking tape and a sharpie. The top hat spins much easier before you have the nut locked down. Nothing is difficult, it just took me some time because I'm no mechanic, not fast enough. I just need to let it settle and then get it aligned. I like the new stance and now the initial lean at the start of the corner is gone and it handles much closer to my previous Giulia TI Sport. No one else in my family will notice a difference but I was the only one with the previous Giulia love affair / obsession. For the cost of the springs , the alignment and the weekend of wrenching, it got me the change I was looking for. These cars spoil you quickly. The top picture is completed. The picture on the wheel chocks, the rear was installed, but not the front. Excuse my shed, it was where the vise was at to hold the strut.