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2020 Stelvio Base RWD
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When a wheel is off a bit, you can have inner tire wear prematurely.
Maybe with 1.2" drop is not bad.
I will drop it 2", so I'm more worried about that.
 

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Do you have the control arms? What I would be interested in, is the two mounting hole distances between them. If I would have that dimension, I could compare to the Stelvio one, to see if it will work, or not.
Hi just measured them 27cm adjustable to 30cm (holes center to center) let me know if you want to see pic of how i measured and the dims. I'm concerned a bit about clearance issues because they have a curve to them but all the images i've seen is that the giulia guys have a much tighter space there than the stelvio. Let us know what dimensions you have on stock CA's (they look shorter for some reason)
 

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I will check it this weekend, and I will let you know. I need to remove the wheel, because there is not enough space to measure it properly.
 

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I'm looking at this Ebay picture and I'm wondering, if we don't need this other arm to be replaced, by an adjustable one as well. Matter of fact, Megan sells this arm as well.
 

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'18 TI Lusso AWD
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well, wouldn't that depend if rear toe in was affected enough by the drop?
For those that have lowered, and had a good 4 wheel alignment, has toe in, or out, been an issue at the new height?
 

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I don't have the Megan arm yet in my hand(tomorrow will arrive), but it seems like it is made out of steel. So it is stronger, there is no need to be bulkier. I can't comment on the curvature yet, but I'm pretty sure it is OK.
 

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yep, its gotta be a fit, and as people have already mentioned its the same part for both cars on Alfissimo... One of these days i'll get my SH$% together and make the swap out my springs and these.
 

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Me too, but I haven't got them yet. I'm wondering, if it easier to replace the rear spring(compared to the Youtube video), since we have to remove this control arm as well.
 

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well, if you disco that upper arm then the only thing stopping the droop will be the axle (assuming you disco'd the shock & swaybar) maybe then you wouldn't need the spring compressor.
 

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Reposting here, from my rear camber arm thread:
So, this weekend I'm replacing the springs, and the Megan Racing Giulia camber arms.
The pivoting bearing's bushings are to wide for the Stelvio, not by much, but luckily I have a small lathe, and I had to machine down, like .010" from each spacer(final dimension 1.173").
The "fork" side is a bit to wide, ideally some spacers would have been nice, but it is OK with just tightening the bolt, until the fork bends a bit. I ended up finishing to late, and did not bother with spacers.
These arms are strong, they are made out of steel, so they are very strong.
On the Giulia forum, some said some bad things about the fork side, where it is welded to the "bolt", but in my opinion, it is done very well. It looks like a flat round head bolt, that goes through the "fork" and is welded on the other side(where the thread is). That is plenty strong.
Saturday, I have finished the two front springs, in 3 hours total.
Today, I have only finished one rear side, and I have worked like 6 hours(!!!).
It is not easy to do this job at all. I was bit after I was done.
I was hoping to finish both rear sides today, and I ended up finishing only one side.
The Youtube video is not correct, what they show it looks very simple, but believe me, that the hard parts they don't show.
In the past, I have lowered a 2008 VW Rabbit and a 2014 Mazda CX5, so this wasn't my first lowering job.
Removing the bottom two bolts are very hard. The front one, does not have much space to pull it out, I had to use a ratchet wrench all the way. The strut has to be removed completely, otherwise it is super hard to align it back into the lower control arm. I was beating on it with a hammer and a piece of wood, did not go in all the way.
Putting back the lowered spring(2"), it has to be compressed again, but you have to be careful where do you place the spring compressors(2), because there is not much space there. One I had to install upside down, the one close to the drive shaft.
When you are removing the camber arm, make sure that you are supporting the disc brake, or control arm, with a floor jack.
The sway bar end link is a pain to remove as well, because the nut is inward and I had to use a torx bit to hold the "bolt" and a 16mm closed end wrench for the nut. There is no space for ratchet wrench. The nut is pretty tight all the way. So, it is not tight in the beginning and then it is loose, it is tight all the way.
The inner bolt (16mm hex) of the camber arm, is a pain to remove also, I almost rounded off the hex. I had to use the same 16mm closed end wrench, all the way. A straight wrench would be easier to use. I had only the once with a little bend. The strut is in the way.
Everything is super tight, I had to open up all the joints, with a breaker bar.
I have worked on the garage floor.
Tomorrow, I still have the rear passenger side to do.
 

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2019 Stelvio Ti sport
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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Wow … you have way more ambition than I do. I took my Madness Sport springs to a custom shop, dropped off my car and came back in 6 hrs, all done for $500. Can’t imagine your tenacity in getting 3 out of 4 done in 12 hrs of hard work. Best wishes for the last one being the easiest one!!
 

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The second side went much faster.
Ride is bouncier for sure, but I like it. My previous car was a Mazda CX5 that I have lowered 3-1/4"(it bottomed out many times), so this one is even softer for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
The second side went much faster.
Ride is bouncier for sure, but I like it. My previous car was a Mazda CX5 that I have lowered 3-1/4"(it bottomed out many times), so this one is even softer for me.
Remind us of the springs you chose for your lowering of your Stelly? I am very happy with effect of lowering mine 1.2" with the Madness Sport springs.
 
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