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Discussion Starter #1
There is a long active thread on the giulia forum, and now on the last page a short vid of actual results with a giulia q4.
In my opinion the most important "tune" you can add. Some clever guys in europe unlocked the code, and were good enough to share.
Sorry, I can't link from my phone.
 

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I was able to successfully activate race mode. It is easy, you need MES and some skills to remove/replace the knob.
First you have do remove the knob and verify it's the one with 10 pins, if it is with less pins, you need to actually get one with RACE mode to test if it will work.
If you have the knob with 10 pins, you can test if RACE mode is available without the new knob.
After you get a new knob with race mode, or you have the one with 10 pins, you can use MES to go in PROXI, use Ctrl+Shift+C in Adjustments tab and change byte 88 from B4 to D4. Press ok and do PROXI Alignment. Complete ABS calibrations after PROXI is complete and you're almost good to go.
Now the tricky part - if you have knob with 10 pins, find a 90.8 ohm resistor (or build one by daisy chaining enough resistors to get to 90.8 ohms (this number does not have to exact 90 ohms or 92 ohms will work as well)). When you're ready with the resistor, connect the knob to its connector, start the car, go to D and connect the resistor for a second between pins 5 and 6, on the back of the connector going to the DNA knob. If you have done everything properly you should have RACE mode enabled. The resistor must be connected only when knob in D mode and you have to connect it only for a second, just to switch the mode to RACE, then remove it. If everything goes well, order the correct knob and have fun while you get it.
I have attached a few images - the knob, RACE mode activated and the resistors I've used to test :)
 

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Yes you need to go from D to RACE, not that you cannot go from A with a resistor (it will triger RACE mode, but as soon as you remove the resistor it will go back to A), but it is not supposed to work that way, so it may confuse the ECUs. It does not need it connected for more than a second, cause RACE mode is triggered (by spring loaded position RACE) anyway. Don't know what happens if it stays there nothing is suppose, its just not the way it's meant to be.

Also be very careful with pin numbers!!
 

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EC tune Phase 2 will give you all the 'race" mode you need.
 

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The selector knob will put your mind in race mode..

EC's tune will put your car into actual race mode..
 

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I want a race mode that lowers the car 2 inches in the front, 1 2/3rds in the rear, then pushes the rear wheels outside the body and makes them become 40's or something utterly ridiculous. Then makes the front fascia look like it's snarling...smoke should be coming out of the tail pipes...and most important there is a button that lets me drop banana peels and oils slicks to trip my competitors...and a cannon to get the one's ahead of me......and makes my passenger turn into Yoshi, Princess Peach, or Luigi. I get to decide which.

...and has a passive laser restraint system. Cause I've wanted to know what that could be since I was like 10 or something.

Otherwise...a tune and race mode might be cool...I want a second Stelvio to tune high enough to out run a Quad. The weight difference between engines -could- make a highly tuned 4 a true killer... (you want the adaptive susp and lsd rear) and this engine has a lot of room in it - I think -.

How long before it self-destructed would be the question.....???
 

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Discussion Starter #13
all that aside, I'm old enough that what is called race mode or track mode etc - to me that is normal, and the other levels of "drivers assistance/intrusion" are for the most part frustrating unnecessary 21st century stuff.
 

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all that aside, I'm old enough that what is called race mode or track mode etc - to me that is normal, and the other levels of "drivers assistance/intrusion" are for the most part frustrating unnecessary 21st century stuff.
Agreed 100%
I have phase 2, and it’s great! But I still want race mode. The more nannies off when I want to play the better.
 

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I was able to successfully activate race mode. It is easy, you need MES and some skills to remove/replace the knob.
First you have do remove the knob and verify it's the one with 10 pins, if it is with less pins, you need to actually get one with RACE mode to test if it will work.
If you have the knob with 10 pins, you can test if RACE mode is available without the new knob.
After you get a new knob with race mode, or you have the one with 10 pins, you can use MES to go in PROXI, use Ctrl+Shift+C in Adjustments tab and change byte 88 from B4 to D4. Press ok and do PROXI Alignment. Complete ABS calibrations after PROXI is complete and you're almost good to go.
Now the tricky part - if you have knob with 10 pins, find a 90.8 ohm resistor (or build one by daisy chaining enough resistors to get to 90.8 ohms (this number does not have to exact 90 ohms or 92 ohms will work as well)). When you're ready with the resistor, connect the knob to its connector, start the car, go to D and connect the resistor for a second between pins 5 and 6, on the back of the connector going to the DNA knob. If you have done everything properly you should have RACE mode enabled. The resistor must be connected only when knob in D mode and you have to connect it only for a second, just to switch the mode to RACE, then remove it. If everything goes well, order the correct knob and have fun while you get it.
I have attached a few images - the knob, RACE mode activated and the resistors I've used to test /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
I picked up some resistors today so I can try connecting pins 5 and 6 after I enable the change on my Giulia with MES to test this out before I buy a new RDNA knob. Can someone tell me how the pins are numbered?
 

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FYI, the thread over on Giuliaforums says you actually need to add 147 Ohms between pins 5 and 6 to achieve ~98 ohms when the resistance in parallel is accounted for.
 

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I picked up some resistors today so I can try connecting pins 5 and 6 after I enable the change on my Giulia with MES to test this out before I buy a new RDNA knob. Can someone tell me how the pins are numbered?
The pin numbers are stamped on the back of the button inside the female connector and on the back of the male connector where the cables go in.

To clarify, D mode has a resistance of 236, which in parallel with 147 ohms, yields the ~90.8 ohms needed to engage.
Mine is working with 90 ohms in parallel. I am saying what I verified to be working. When i realized i really need 147 ohm resistor, I've already installed the temp solution. It is still working with 90 ohm in parallel to the 236 ohms from D mode. The strangest part is, that it is working even when I'm in A mode and I press the button to connect the 90 ohms in parallel! When I release the button it goes back to A though, but it triggers race mode when pressed.
 

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The pin numbers are stamped on the back of the button inside the female connector and on the back of the male connector where the cables go in.



Mine is working with 90 ohms in parallel. I am saying what I verified to be working. When i realized i really need 147 ohm resistor, I've already installed the temp solution. It is still working with 90 ohm in parallel to the 236 ohms from D mode. The strangest part is, that it is working even when I'm in A mode and I press the button to connect the 90 ohms in parallel! When I release the button it goes back to A though, but it triggers race mode when pressed.
Not so strange, as you will have overlapping resistance ranges due to your choice of resistor.....
 
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