Joined
·
180 Posts
Rough Idle, Cylinder misfire and CEL.....This is the 4th or 5th time that this happens to the car....when I took it to the dealer before they just cleared the codes...
Usually it happens after the car has not been used in a couple of days or more.....when I start the car the idle is rough and then the CEL begins to blink, and then I get the "electronic throttle control message" and after that it seems that 1 or 2 cylinders are not working, very rough.....reduced power and the DNA selector is stuck in N I think....when I begin to drive after half a mile it starts to work ok and after turning the engine off and on again everything is perfect!!
The other time that I had the same problem with a cylinder not working was when I was washing the car .....I left the engine idling for a long time and when I finished the same thing with a cylinder not working happened, but it went away after a couple of brisk accelerations.....
Either it is a problem with the oil or maybe carbon in the spark plugs?.....a problem with the battery's voltage?...or something else?.....I wonder why since during a cold start at 1500 RPM or even idling the alternator should be charging the battery and the voltage should not be so low.....
I know a mechanic once commented that these engines like to be driven everyday and aggressively.....I decided just in case to get a Lithium car battery car starter and I will connect it to the battery the next time I start the car after a weekend....lets see what happens......I hope it wont happen again!!!....and if it happens again then it wont be battery related for sure.
If I have to take it to the dealer again for this same issue, I wont accept the typical "the mechanic erased the codes and the car works fine now"...!!!
Usually it happens after the car has not been used in a couple of days or more.....when I start the car the idle is rough and then the CEL begins to blink, and then I get the "electronic throttle control message" and after that it seems that 1 or 2 cylinders are not working, very rough.....reduced power and the DNA selector is stuck in N I think....when I begin to drive after half a mile it starts to work ok and after turning the engine off and on again everything is perfect!!
The other time that I had the same problem with a cylinder not working was when I was washing the car .....I left the engine idling for a long time and when I finished the same thing with a cylinder not working happened, but it went away after a couple of brisk accelerations.....
Either it is a problem with the oil or maybe carbon in the spark plugs?.....a problem with the battery's voltage?...or something else?.....I wonder why since during a cold start at 1500 RPM or even idling the alternator should be charging the battery and the voltage should not be so low.....
I know a mechanic once commented that these engines like to be driven everyday and aggressively.....I decided just in case to get a Lithium car battery car starter and I will connect it to the battery the next time I start the car after a weekend....lets see what happens......I hope it wont happen again!!!....and if it happens again then it wont be battery related for sure.
If I have to take it to the dealer again for this same issue, I wont accept the typical "the mechanic erased the codes and the car works fine now"...!!!