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I hope it is visible in this post: you see that 3.5" midranges have been added. I don't know how to remove the plastic panels that cover the place where the speakers have been added. I think someone called these pieces/places "D pillars".

 
I hope it is visible in this post: you see that 3.5" midranges have been added. I don't know how to remove the plastic panels that cover the place where the speakers have been added. I think someone called these pieces/places "D pillars".

How did you run the wires inside the vehicle back to the sub once you tapped into the L/R rear speaker leads?
 
How did you run the wires inside the vehicle back to the sub once you tapped into the L/R rear speaker leads?
As far as I'm concerned, after much investigating the pros and cons of the various potential mods to the base system, I have opted for a dsp + active subwoofer. The sub receives low-level signals, by means of RCA connections, from the DSP.

Doing so I didn't tap into the high level wires to the rear speakers.

If I misunderstood your question, please accept my apologies.

AG
 
Well, my Kicker Sub has been installed by local Best Buy in Altamonte Springs. OMG, not only did my installer David Ramos do an amazing job, clean, no wiring showing anywhere, it sounds much better, filling out the missing lows. Nothing like Beastie Boys Licensed to Ill, like college days, in the Stelvio. Cost me 180 for an open box, excellent condition Kicker, retailing for $300, and $128 with tax for install. Crutchfield, I have purchased from the in past. They have no knowledge of the Stelvio, and even with me providing them info about folks on this forum doing the installs, they are disinterested, and I have no use for them anymore. Good times, Mark

Can you please tell me which specific kicker sub you got? I may copy what you did here and just take it into best buy for the install. I have a 2019 base stereo no sub in the back and I want to try this first before paying 1000+ for a custom fiberglass sub in the back and or an entire system.
 
As far as I'm concerned, after much investigating the pros and cons of the various potential mods to the base system, I have opted for a dsp + active subwoofer. The sub receives low-level signals, by means of RCA connections, from the DSP.

Doing so I didn't tap into the high level wires to the rear speakers.

If I misunderstood your question, please accept my apologies.

AG
Can you please tell us what dsp and active subwoofer you bought? I'm in the same situation, base system (Which is really bad imo) with no sub so this may be the cost effective solution to me. I don't need earth shattering bass and I don't really play my music that loud but I defineatly and willing to pay (hopefully less than 1k) to upgrade the bass system with a sub. Stereo shops near me have quoted me a bit less than 1k to make a custom fiberglass box for a sub to be placed in the rear back trunk where the sub is located on the ones that were optioned with that.
 
Hi there.

In my case I had two goals: spend as low as possible, but with at least a decent sound quality, and be able to bring easily the car back to standard, since it's long term rent car (4 years). So I went for the following:

DSP: Puzu pz-c7 amplifier + dsp, a decent chinese 4-ch + sub dsp. I had an alternative in mind, which was the pioneer DEQ S1000A DSP.

The reason for choosing the puzu dsp were:

#1: it's size. It's so small that I have been able to attach it directly to the ETM with some velcro tape. Other DSPs are larger and force you to place it in the trunk, so you'll need to drive quite a large number of cables back/forth from/to the dsp and the ETM, making the installatio much more complicated.

#2: Price

#3: It is capable of receving both low level and high level inputs, so much flexibility. It also has RCA sub outputs and a 15 bands parametric EQ with quite a number of useful settings.

#4: I can fully configure and control it also with my android phone, via a BT connection.

#5: It incorporates an amplifier, so it's not a pure dsp, but an amplifier+dsp

So I wanted to give it a try and picked this one.

As far as the sub is concerned, I went off for the Kenwood KSC-SW11. It is a 150W max active (amplified) sub that I fitted in the same space like many others here on the forum, that is underneath the floor in the trunk.

In case you'r curious to know more about how it's going, the overall performances, etc, I can post here a link to the Italian Stelvio forum, where I opened a (quite long already!) thread on this installation, with plenty of pictures about the install. Over the next days, now that the installation is complete, I'll go on with the measurement of the performance, and the tuning, using proper tech equipements (that is: calibrated microphone, a "serious" sound card, the REW audio software, a USB digital mixer and a few other things.

I know it's in Italian, but Google translate can help - at least I do so, when I visit forum that speak languages other than Italian and English :)

Funny enough, I took so many ideas, inspiration and help right from THIS forum, before I decided to go on and embark into my own mods!
 
I forgot to mention that another reason why I have chosen that dsp, is because it comes with an harness that perfectly fitted my Stelvio. When you order the dsp, you specify the make and model of your car, and they send you the right cables. This was important for me to not cut any original car wirings.
 
Can you please tell me which specific kicker sub you got? I may copy what you did here and just take it into best buy for the install. I have a 2019 base stereo no sub in the back and I want to try this first before paying 1000+ for a custom fiberglass sub in the back and or an entire system.
Kicker hideaway 8 inch. Best Buy did the install. I did not bury it under the rear but rather have it on top in the hatch and it’s just fine
 
Here are the products I used. Be sure to turn gain on LOC all the way up & I have bass boost & xover on powered sub all the way up, gain on powered sub barley turned and on head unit treble +9, bass +4, balance/fade 3 clicks towards back speakers and it sounds as good if not better than my X5 M with premium Bose system.✌
Did you need a capacitor at all? Best Buy “suggested” it and I just want to make sure I’m understanding its’ purpose or if it’s really needed. Also, did you have to reprogram any of your settings (radio, seats, comfort settings, etc.) since the battery was disconnected during installation?
 
I'm attempting this same install on a 2022 Stelvio. It's been a bit since this post, but just in case: I'm totally stuck on how to run the wires from the tap-in point at the door pillar to the trunk. They seem to run inside the body somehow, but I've been poking around and removing panels for a few hours and I can't find the path. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Thanks, great idea to take signals there, in my previous Giulia it was a paint in ass to pull them from central infotainment unit back to amplifier, because door sill plastics were impossible to dissmantle without damage. If its not too late, since it is pre-corona post, when tapping signals from the B-pillar, you pulled signal wires inside the cabin without dissmantling door sills and B-pillar bottoms?
 
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